Trailer Wife

Taking one for the team



Top Ten Things I Love Most About My Sister:
1. She is NEVER late to anything. Ever.
2. She is the best present-buyer on the planet.
3. She is more organized than I am, which is saying something.
4. She appreciates a really good paper and stationary store.
5. She is not a great cook, which makes me oddly happy.
6. She knows all the lyrics to Newsies.
7. When she laughs really hard, her nose crinkles up and she can't catch her breath, which is funny to watch.
8. She has ridiculous phobias, like I do.
9. She genuinely cares about her role in this world and wants to make a difference.
10. She knows exactly where I came from.

On Monday, Sam and I joined my sister, my bro-in-law and his family at Cannon Beach for the day. We had heard about the palatial home, right on the water, where Heidi's in-laws had spent July 4th for the past several years, and relished an afternoon on a real, fishy, salty, smelly, wonderful beach. In Aberdeen, we often forgot that we lived on the coast; the North Sea is incredibly sterile and lifeless. Nothing like the fecund Pacific.


And I had never been to Cannon Beach - significant only because one of my favorite movies of all time, The Goonies, was filmed there in 1985. Like all the other seven-year-olds in 1985, I wanted desperately to be a Goonie. I was gangly, frizzy-haired, and too tomboyish for social comfort. The gang of nerds and misfits thrown together in Richard Donner's masterpiece (written, ahem, by Christopher Columbus and Steven Spielberg) provided inspiration for countless treasure-hunting forays into creek beds, crawl spaces, and blackberry patches. In fact, I fantasized as a pre-teen of moving to the beach, building the white Goonie house up on a hill, and becoming a professional pirate expert - which still, truth be told, lingers as a long term goal.

So it was gratifying to stand on the beach looking up at Haystack Rock and wondering if we could find a way in to One-Eyed Willie's cave. I dared Sam to do the Truffle Shuffle, but the closest I came to seeing Chunk was Gusser's over-excited expression upon discovering SAND, which resembled:

I know that I am way late to the IKEA lovefest, but Oh My God. I had always avoided the monstrous warehouse store near the Portland Airport with the same contempt reserved for weekend trips to theme parks and paint by number artwork. Just too tedious. But since we have zero furniture/furnishings/decor/utensils, we figured it would be smart to check it out.


So, after a car trip that severely strained our marriage (seriously, why make the entrance to such a huge store so impossible to find?), with Gusser in
tow, we went a little nuts. Here are my favorite purchases:




Expedit Bookcase with seagrass baskets - $89.99












Poang Chair with footstool - $129.00










Antilop High Chair with tray - $24.99











Jorun Form Duvet King Cover - $29.99












Rajtan Spice Jars - $2.99 for 4











Mula Abacus - $9.99

Neither Sam nor I would have anticipated how great it feels to be home. And by great I mean why-in-god's-name-did-we-ever-leave-this-paradise-on-earth great? There is NOTHING like summer in the Willamette Valley. Oh, how we took it for granted. We've been spending the last few days barbecuing and lounging with Gus in the grass, internet shopping for all the stuff we need to buy before heading north, and generally feeling blissed out.


One of the more annoying things about living abroad is the constant comparisons we find ourselves making about everything from peanut butter to politics. When we first moved to Aberdeen, it was "Back home we do it like this," and "In the States, you'd never get away with that," etc. Now that we're back, it's the same story.

Here is a taster:
1. In Scotland, cops are not assholes.
2. In Scotland, the variety and affordability of baby food is far superior to American options.
3. In Scotland, clip-board-clutching activists have the good sense to let you walk by unaccosted when you don't make eye contact.
4. In Scotland, the drunks are much happier.
5. In Scotland, TV commercials are way more dignified.

So that's what my family has had to endure this past week. I'm hoping it will pass soon.

3 weeks ago:

Me: I don't need an iPhone.

Sam: They are totally overrated.

Me: And expensive.

Sam: Fucking AT&T and their $30 data plan.

Me: I'd be totally happy with a cheap phone.

Sam: We'll just go in and look at what they have. But we ARE NOT going to get talked into walking out with iPhones, got it?

Me: Got it.

Yesterday:

I decided to finish the list on this side of the Atlantic, thinking that I'd be able to more clearly articulate the one thing that meant the most to me in Scotland over the last couple of years. It turns out that it isn't any easier. This is the best I can do: what I miss most is the air, full of ancient earth, the taste of granite, thick green grass, terrible sadness, unwashed wool, wind over thickets of gorse, singing drunks, the aching whine of rickety fiddles, groaning pipes, cold water, and wrinkled, blue-eyed faces. It is a folksy voodoo, an invisible magic net that hangs, alive, over both craggy cliffs and shitty, pre-fab villages. It seeps into you like an infection, making you long for peat fires and beef olives, starchy potatoes and milky tea. I may not like the land of the small and broken, but my love for Scotland is bone deep.

We were up at 3:30 AM, repacking and trying not to wake up Gus, who had finally fallen asleep about two hours before between us on the hotel bed. A walk down the Longest Hotel Corridor in History led to a confrontation with the shuttle bus driver over our ungodly amount of luggage, amidst which I gave up and started walking to the airport with the stroller and snoring Gus and miraculously beat the morning rush of London commuters. With the luggage tagged, loaded, extra weight fees paid and Gus now awake and ready to rock at 5:00 AM, we stumbled through security, pissing everyone off, and had every single one of our bags flagged for search. EVERY ONE. I had to drink Gusser's formula to prove it wasn't liquid explosives, and donate his sunscreen to the TSA. By 8:30 AM we had landed in Amsterdam, sprinted toward our gate, and boarded the shitty Delta 737, which didn't even have personal entertainment centers (not like we planned to use them, traveling with a 9 month old).

The first three hours were a living hell.

Seriously, we vowed to each other that we'd never again attempt
air travel until Gus was 12 or 13. He would not accept that the drink carts, ear plugs, bathroom doors, neighbors shoes, and seatbelt buckles had not been provided for him to chew on. We squirmed and kicked and cried until we were ready to close him up in one the overhead compartments (for which I am positive we would have received a round of applause) until he finally gave up and passed out. He slept much better than he had at 3 months old, when we first attempted the trip. And honestly, after that first hellish stint, Gus was a rock star. He flirted with neighbors, played happily on the floor by our feet and took numerous laps around the fuselage. The only other moment when he lost his minds was ten minutes before we landed. Nothing would make him happy - he cried and writhed while we passed him back and forth, making fools out of ourselves trying to interest him in magazines and letting him gnaw on our fingers. Then, some angelic woman sitting nearby asked to hold him, and he immediately transformed into the most contented, smiling little humanoid you've ever seen. Little Traitor.

The most interesting thing about flying west from Europe is that you travel with the sun. Time almost stops as you cross international date lines, time zones, and oceans. We were in the air almost 12 hours, but never saw the sun set. Landing in Portland at noon, it felt as if the flight had lasted no time at all, and that the last 20 months in Scotland had passed almost as quickly.

The organic, Chandler blueberry got us started. (I say us, because canning is something we see as somehow acceptable en mass, but categorically pathetic as a solitary pursuit.) The Northwest Chandler blueberry can grow to the size of a ping-pong ball, but retains its sweet, wild flavor. Because they are also organic, we understand them to be both medicinal and beneficent. We order twenty-five pounds worth.


Like proud pioneer women, we borrow a station wagon, and make the ten-mile trek to the organic farm. We can hardly believe that such a place exists so close to home, and wander through the pear, peach and apple orchards in penitent awe. Picking the ripe fruit, abuzz with a friendly cohort of fat bumblebees gilded by the late summer sunset, is an experience akin to conversion. We’ve filled the car before we can reign ourselves in, and buy three T-shirts emblazoned with the farm’s logo from an elderly woman named Bess, who has worked the roadside counter since she was fourteen. We are exultant, three brawny Demeters, but listen to Liz Phair all the way home to remind ourselves, despite our sudden bounty, who we are. (to be continued...)

#9 Single Malt Whiskey

I know you can get it everywhere - but there's something about sipping a dram so near the peat-laden streams and blue blue rivers where it is distilled. In early winter, when our neighbors finally start lighting their coal fires, I can smell whiskey in the air. It reminds me of oysters and wild mushrooms - things that are imbibed with the essence of their making. I'll never again be able to drink whiskey without thinking of the spongy moss near a burn, or the haar rolling in from the north sea to lay heavy on granite Aberdeen. And if I ever need a reason to partake, quoth Burns, I'll think of good friends and being dry, or any other reason why.

People in Aberdeen keep saying to me, "Wow - this month has passed so quickly, I can't believe you're leaving already!" And I smile and nod. But inside I am thinking, um, no, not really. This month has passed with the speed of glaciers and social change. Every night I cross off one more day on the calender, count the days left and despair. It's embarrassing that I am so eager to end this ex-patriot experience. If you had asked me a year ago whether or not I could live abroad for the rest of my life, my answer would have been an unequivocal YES. But things have changed. Our president is a decent man. I have a kid who needs to start working on his jump shot. And I miss Mexican food.


Two more days, one hellish 14 hour flight and a trip through US customs and I am laying in the sweet Pacific Northwest grass, sun of my face, babysitters at hand, fresh salsa nearby... will that moment ever arrive? Here's hoping.

#8 - George McGillivray
We met George on the morning we came to look at the flat, a few days after we'd arrived in Aberdeen. We were a bundle of nerves, wanting a place to live and hide from the chaotic translatantic experience more than anything. George was puttering around the front garden when we walked up, 30 minutes early for our appointment with the estate agent, looking lost and nervous. He asked us in for tea, his famous Scottish tablet, and even called the owner when we left to give us a neighbor nod. George had lost his wife a few weeks before we arrived, and I like to think that as much as we needed him, maybe he needed us a little too. Great things about George: he knows every Scottish country dance song by heart; he grows flower starts from seed and gives them away; he always knows what the weather will do; he loves my kid almost as much as I do.

Amanda and Harrison came up Sunday for a whirlwind farewell trip. I'm still so bummed about saying goodbye to this amazing woman, that I'll let the photos tell the story of her visit.



#7 Castles

Aberdeenshire is castle country. There are 127 castles within an hour's drive of our flat. 127! When else in my life can I jump in the car on a lazy Saturday afternoon and pretend to be a princess? Although the inhabited castles are the most revered, the ruined castles are my favorite. Dunnotor castle (see pic), ten miles from Aberdeen, is where Mel Gibson filmed part of his version of Hamlet. And Slains castle, ten miles in the other direction, is where Bram Stoker envisioned Dracula. I'm slowly getting used to the idea that the only castles in my future will be of the igloo variety.

In honor of the 7 days I have left in Scotland (is that possible?!) here is a list of 7 things already in my suitcase. We sold almost everything we owned before we moved to Aberdeen, but these are things so precious I hauled them over the Atlantic, and will haul them back again.


1. A stack of moleskin journals
- 1 journal dedicated to words that I love and don't want to forget. Here is a sampler: pugnacious, jocular, centrifugal sadness, feckless, frippery, doxy and yokel
- 1 journal full of research notes for my novel
- 2 planners
- 2 reporter notebooks to carry around in my pocket (or diaper bag, as it were)
- 1 address book
- 1 journal for things that I want Gus to know when he's older

2. A beautiful Visconti fountain pen, given to me by my favorite university professor for graduation, that I use to write letters. How Victorian of me, I know.

3. The entire 7 season series of West Wing. (ooh! Another 7)

4. My red velvet herb-scented sleep mask.

5. A cast-iron flying piggy bank with two pennies in it, given to me by my sweet friend Andy, who will only stop caring about my two cents when pigs fly.

6. The Danskos that I bought in the early 90's - in Cordovan Cabrio Leather. No joke, during the first week in Scotland, a woman came up to me while I was wearing these shoes and said, "You're from Oregon, aren't you?"

7. JCrew Black Peacoat purchased 1998. I will own this coat for the rest of my life.


A week ago today we were driving through the Cairngorm National Forest to a friend's uncle's country cottage for the night. It is near a town called Tomintoul, but really, it was the middle of nowhere. We drove past this amazing, brilliantly white building and almost crashed the car trying to pull over to take this photo. It's called Corgarff Castle, and was built in 1550. During the Jacobite rising in 1745, it was converted to a barracks, and the stone, star-shaped wall was built around it. Let me rephrase that: from the sky, the wall looks like an enormous six-pointed star-shaped cookie cutter! In the 1850s, it was used to tackle whisky smuggling and illicit stills in the area. By the turn of the century, it was privately owned again, and the last occupants were the Ross sisters, known locally as the Castle ladies, who left sometime during the First World War. I have started a short story inspired by this enchanting little place and the ladies who last resided there, and will post a bit soon.

#6 Fields of Rapeseed

For the longest time, we'd be driving along the coast and I'd see these patches of superhero-yellow, impossibly bright. I imagined huge fields of densely growing daffodils. Finally, a gentleman farmer in my writing group filled me in. Rapeseed is a tall, stalky flowering plant that is pressed into oil and also used for livestock feed. One day this spring, we finally managed to actually drive past a field. I got out and frolicked in the waist-high sea of sunny, musty-smelling blossoms. It is one my favorite memories of Scotland.

Before we were canners we were opposed to canning. We looked on it, and all other arcane forms of female servitude, with righteous indignation. It was beneath us, outdated, something our grandmothers had tried to teach to our mothers before they found feminism and husbands with Costco cards. It’s true that we made certain assumptions about canning: that it had been invented out of a dire economic necessity that no longer existed; that it prefigured the female experience as one that would allow for days spent huddled over huge pots of boiling water; that it was devilishly hard work. In a world where the personal is political, canning was not something we were for.


Brought up in middle-sized American towns by working mothers and worn out daycare providers, we learned at a young age to be suspicious of food prepared from “scratch.” Equally questionable was anything that had not been stored in airtight containers, wrapped in prophylactic cellophane, and transferred from the refrigerated truck to the grocery store walk-in to our vegetable crispers, in that order.

We are for convenience, and feel most comfortable with meals that, with only a pat of butter and two cups of hot water, spring, fully formed, from cardboard boxes. It’s not that we don’t appreciate good food, we do; appreciation of good food is, after all, one of the tenants of the intelligentsia, to which we all assume membership. We simply delegate the responsibility of preparing, cooking and serving good food to the experts, and visit their not-too-dimly lit, linen-swathed tables as often as reasonably expected for twenty-something academics with maxed out credit cards and bourgeois sensibility.

Picturing utility porches, garage shelving and back room closets lined with the stout glass jars, paraffin wax curdled over a syrupy stew of whatever had been flush a few summer back, we tell ourselves stories of people being poisoned by six-month-old plums—someone’s aunt killed by an improperly pickled asparagus. We are the type of women who don’t trust an act of preservation that doesn’t call for preservatives. (to be continued...)

#5 The National Health Service

As if I wasn't already a fan of Universal Health Care... moving to the UK really sealed the deal. Stop listening to the nut jobs who shriek that socialized medicine requires years-long waiting lists and people dying before they can set foot in a hospital. It's a load of bull. When I need to make an appointment, I call the clinic and they usually get me in the SAME DAY. And here's the clincher: The average cost of a hospital birth in the U.S. is between $8,800 and $11,000. The amount we paid for Gus' super non-invasive midwife delivery: zippo. And don't even get me started on statutory maternity pay.

In the Fairbanks Daily Paper, News Miner:


"An Alaskan woman died in a hit-and-run accident. Police say the incident occurred at a trailer park where 42-year-old Brenda Baehm was attempting to buy the prescription narcotic Vicoden from a passenger in a van.

Police say the woman discovered that the Vicoden tablets were actually Tylenol and an argument ensued. As Baehm began to walk away, the van drove forward and struck Baehm and dragged her about 40 feet. Baehm suffered major head trauma. She was pronounced dead at the scene.

The driver of the van - 37-year-old Cora Williams - has been charged with manslaughter and criminally negligent homicide. The passenger, 37-year-old Sarah Savage-Williams, faces a drug charge."

Does the fact that I find this really ironic and kind of weirdly hilarious make me a bad person? At least I know that Fairbanks won't be lacking in short story material...

#4 Amanda Duke

Here is the story of Christie and Amanda. One rainy Saturday in October, two newly-married Trailer Wives, unbeknownst to each other, decided to attend a Really Terrible writing group meeting in Aberdeen. As they listened to one fumbling poem after another, they began to ask themselves what the hell they were doing in that stuffy, institutional, council hall room with all of those elderly, self-absorbed yahoos. But at the end of the meeting, recognizing one clearly normal person in the fray and commenting on her fabulous Italian hand bag, Christie asked Amanda if she'd like to meet for coffee. They did.

Sitting in Books and Beans on Belmont Street, Christie and Amanda talked and talked, marveling at how it seemed like they'd known each other for years, not just a couple of hours. During the winter months, Christie and Amanda formed their own writing group, and met at Amanda's country house to write their novels in the snug little office next to a wood burning fire. They even invited their Big-Shot Husbands for fabulous Indian meals and Christmas goose dinners. On New Year's Eve, they had a wild party where Christie got wasted and declared that Amanda was her best friend in the world, and had made the trip across the Atlantic worth it. And she meant it.

In the first week of January, Christie started feeling a little woozy in the mornings, and took a pregnancy test. Positive. Over lunch that day, she told Amanda, who confessed that she too was feeling a little strange, and wouldn't it be crazy if she were pregnant too? Want to take my extra pregnancy test just to be sure? Christie asked. A few hours later, Amanda called Christie. You're never going to believe it, she said.

For the next nine months, Christie and Amanda spent their days taking yoga classes, meeting for writing dates and Rocky Road at Starbucks, drinking raspberry leaf tea and talking about movies. Then, one morning in September, Christie called Amanda, who raced to her side (or maybe waddled a bit). Amanda was the first person to visit Christie in the hospital and rested little Gus on her own bulging bump. Thirteen days later, they were back in the hospital, only this time it was Christie and Gus coming to visit Amanda and Harrison.

When, in December, Amanda's Big-Shot Husband got a new job and they moved away to London, Christie was gutted. But Amanda reminded her that it was only a matter of time before Christie's Big-Shot Husband moved up in the world, leading them away from Aberdeen as well. And she was right. Even though Christie knows that she will probably never live near Amanda again, she is just as sure that they will be friends for the rest of their lives. Whether it is shuttling their boys across the pond for summer visits or popping in for a few nights amid their (inevitable) future book tours, these two look forward to lots of fireside, cupcake-filled writing dates to come. The End.

Ten Interesting Things About My Mom:

1) Her older brother once placed her, upside down, in a trash can.
2) She wears makeup when camping.
3) She will never refuse dessert. Never.
4) For half the year, she lives on a commercial fishing boat with 6 men and one bathroom, and doesn't complain about it.
5) She once ran over my left foot with the car.
6) My sister, Mom and I once had a contest to see how many grapes we could fit in our mouths and Mom won.
7) She can spot a garage sale sign from 100 yards. In the dark. When it's raining.
8) She used to beat an egg into our ramen noodles to make it more nutritious, even though we hated it. Now, I can't eat it any other way.
9) She is an AMAZING parallel parker. Which is really remarkable, considering the way that she drives.
10) Without her constant faith and unquestioning belief in me, I would have undoubtedly given up on myself a long time ago. Thank Mom.

#3 The Sky

I will never forget flying into Aberdeen. It was October 4th, 2007 around 4:00PM in the afternoon. In October, it's already starting to get dark in Aberdeen at 4:00 PM, and the sky that day was huge and sherbet-colored, strewn with perfectly pillowy clouds. It suddenly dawned on me, how all of the British landscape paintings I'd ever seen seemed to have that same kind of quality. How the sky filled 3/4 of the canvas, dramatically lit and multi-layered, making the earth below seem a bramble of mishap and mess. To be fair, the chances of actually seeing the sky through the nearly-ever-present October drizzle isn't great. But that's a different list.

#2 Tunnock's Tea Cakes

Mallomars got nothing on Tunnock's. Distributed by a little family-run bakery in Scotland, these tasty treats have acquired something of a cult status in the UK. With a buttery foundation of shortbread, a dome of a thick, sweet whipped egg white concoction and a light shell of milk chocolate, these addictive little suckers have directly contributed to my weight loss woes. True story: I have bought three boxes in the last week to send home to friends. Have any of those boxes made it to the mail box? No.

Diana Gabaldon ruined me for Scotland.


At fifteen, I was working in a grimy costume shop in Albany, Oregon run by a crotchety, distantly Scottish woman called Marti. One day, after pulling twenty-five flappers for a community college production of Anything Goes, I sat down to a lunch of microwaved fettucini and complained that I had forgotten my book. Marti, who hated complaining of any kind, threw something that I took at first for a brick toward my head. It was a dog-eared copy of Outlander, the first book in the Gabaldon oeuvre.

Outlander is a story of a WWII nurse, Claire Beauchamp Randell, who, on an ill-fated honeymoon trip to the Scottish Highlands, accidentally walks through the cleft in a ring of standing stones and ends up in the 18th century. Sounds irresistable, I know. Claire's misadventures include forced marriage to a strapping red-headed warrior, fighting off wolves with her bare hands, and rescuing aforementioned husband from a buggering English Dragoon, the many-times-over great grandfather of her 20th century groom. Let me tell you - I fell in love with the characters, setting, and preposterous premise on contact, and to this day, it is my most closely guarded secret indulgence.

Gabaldon, who has written 7 books in the series so far, knits together landscape and legend in a way that pushes all of my buttons. She is, to her credit, an amazing constructor of character; James Alexander Malcolm Mackenzie Fraser is one of the most vibrant and intensely lovable characters I've ever read. But Gabaldon is no fool. A scientist by trade, I imagine she must have made the decision at some point, veering from literary fiction to genre with (almost admirable) deliberation. The sex is frequent, and really good. Bodices are unapologetically torn to shreds; women are sassy but vulnerable and conveniently gorgeous; story lines move wildly between royal courts to pirate ships to empty moors. Sigh. It's like crack.

So when we found out we were moving to Scotland, the lusty, knowing look in my eye was no surprise to people who really knew me. I imagined all sorts of things. Living in a crumbly crofter on the banks of Loch Ness. Visiting Culloden and walking wistfully through the heather. Making friends with local wifeys and collecting Scottish yarns that would one day make me famous. The reality, which I'm sure you can see coming, was a bit of a shock. I wanted rugged beauty and I got puked-on sidewalks. I was looking for coal fires and damp wool and I found cheap carpet and Primark.

The transition was hard. Very hard. There were a million cultural differences that I hadn't anticipated. For example, when in public, Scottish people like to pretend that all other people don't exist. They are hopelessly cheap, have terrible sidewalk etiquette, and lean a little too heavily on cologne in preference to regular bathing. A far cry from my imagined kilt-clad Highlanders who would, in my perfect world, run around playing bagpipes and wielding broad swords.

I don't know yet what I will take away from Scotland. And even though I know it hasn't been the romp in the heather I envisioned, there have been a few charming adventures. I'm pretty sure that it will only take ten minutes of being in the States for me to realize how much I loved it here, and to remember all of the Scots' good qualities. In the mean time, it feels a little better to put the blame for my discontent on the shoulders of Ms. Gabaldon.


#1: Stone Walls

They are everywhere. Driving through the city you see stone walls fencing in back gardens, front yards, car parks, bus shelters. And then there is the countryside, where they crisscross the green green fields with no discernible organization. Where do they get all this stone? I often wonder. And what kind of person does it take to construct miles of it into immovable, intricately crafted walls? You never see them being built. It's as if each moss-covered wall predates everything around it, grudgingly allowing buildings and stretches of grass to exist between them.

No, I do not live in a double-wide.


What I mean by trailer wife is actually "trailing spouse." That's the technical term used by insurance companies and loan officers to describe the state of the spouse, most often a woman, who has been caught up in the trajectory of the other half.

When Sam's post-doctoral research took us to Scotland, I had delusions of grandeur: a writing degree from St. Andrews; quirky life experiences that might include sheep herding or kilt making; a novel inspired by the craggy cliffs and craggier old blokes populating the local pub. In reality, Scotland is not stuck in the 19th century. It is a very modern, messy, sometimes ugly place not unlike any other metropolitan place on the planet. The commute to St. Andrews was too complicated; quirky jobs that don't suck are nonexistent; writing a novel is hard. And then I got pregnant.

There's nothing like the startling responsibility of another human to convert a free-wheeling european adventure into presbyterian practicality.

So here we are, in Aberdeen, with only 22 days left before we fly to Oregon, buy an entire household, load all of our business into a Uhaul and head north. Fairbanks, in the North Star Borough, has the widest temperature spread of any city on earth, ranging from -66 to 99 degrees Fahrenheit. Did I mention there are man-eating bears making regular backyard appearances? Come visit!